Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Kyoto Day 3

So, refreshed by a stay in more comfortable accommodations, we set out to explore the northwestern part of the city. The first stop, though, was Heian Jingu, near the city centre. This very grand shrine was actually built in 1895 by the Meiji Emperor to commemorate the establishment of the capital in Kyoto (then Heian-kyo) in 795 by Emperor Kammu, which started the Heian Period (795-1185). It was intended to replicate the Imperial Palace in Kyoto, and is built in the Heian style of architecture, which shows the heavy Chinese influence of the time. It is also famous for having the largest torii in Japan, which is freakin' huge!

























From there, it was a fair bus ride to the next stop, probably one of the most famous tourist spots in Kyoto, Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion). It was originally built in 1397 by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who was obviously better at managing his finances than his son, who built Ginkaku-ji. Apparently, in 1950, a young monk was so enamoured of it that he burnt it to the ground (as you do), so the current building was painstakingly reconstructed according to the original design.









It has some nice gardens, too.





From there, it was a fair hike down the road to Ryouan-ji, a Zen temple of the Rinzai school, which has probably the most famous rock garden in the world...











...and a nice reflecting pool, too. After a brief stop for vending-machine coffee, we ventured to the last stop, Ninna-ji. Originally built in 842, it is the headquarters of the Omura branch of Shingon Buddhism, an esoteric school with heavy influence from Tantra. My companion, who subscribes to one of the New Age fluffy-bunny schools of Buddhism, thought this place was "too dark" and that they practiced "black magic" here, so naturally, I was an instant fan. Apparently, so too were the Heian Emperors and nobility.

















In addition to the main temple, there was a subtemple complex with gardens near the main gate (that's it, looming in the background). Sorry guys, I went a bit crazy taking pics!























It was closing time, and we were politely but hastily ushered out of there, just in time to get out the main gate before it was closed on us. In the last rays of the setting sun, we found a bus stop and caught a bus back to Kyoto station. After the subtlety, delicacy and tranquility of temples all day, it was a bit of a rude shock to return to the garish neon jungle of the city centre, but I had to get a quick snap of Kyoto Tower, lit up like electricity is going out of style...



...before braving the underground shopping complex below Kyoto station to find a bite to eat. We settled on a fine tonkatsu dinner set, with selection of dipping sauces, tsukemono and white miso soup - maybe not the height of Kyoto cuisine, but novel and satisfying nonetheless. A quick trip through the complex provided suitable omiyage for work, and in less than an hour via shinkansen, we were back. Thankfully, I still had another day to recover before returning to work.

Whew! I thought I'd never get through all that - and just in time for another trip to Kyoto for sakura season this Thursday. Hopefully, it won't take me two months to post that one...

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